Shoe and welt therefor



(No Model.)

W. J. DREY.

SHOE AND WELT THEREFGR. No.. 600,771. Patented Mar."15,1898.

WILFRED `'JOI-IN DREY, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

SHQE AND WELT THEREIFOR.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 600,771, dated March15, 1898. Application led 'Tune 11, 1897. Serial No. 640,279. (Nomodel.)

. ing had to the accompanying drawings.

The present invention relates to boots and shoes, and more particularlyto that class of boots and shoes known as welted boots and shoes; and ithas for its object the production of an improved welt which shall becapable of being secured to the upper and insole without turning up itsstitch-receiving edge and which can be stitched to the upper and insoleof a boot or shoe in 4such manner that the edge of the upper will beforced closely within the angle formed by the lip and feather of theinsole, resulting in a tight and close union between the upper, welt,and insole, and in which the stitches of the inseam shall be sopositioned that great flexibility in the finished shoe will result.

Prior to the present invention it has been customary in the manufactureof welted boots and shoes to turn up the stitch-receiving portion of thewelt adjacent the upper and lip of the insole to receive the stitches ofthe inseam, and in many instances, in order to facilitate this turningup of the edge of the welt, it has been the practice to provide theunder face of the welt, near its inner or stitch-receiving edge, with agroove, and to bevel off or skive the inner edge thereof, an example ofsuch construction being disclosed in Letters Patent of the United Statesissued to S. W. Wardwell, Jr., July 5, 1887, No. 365,888. It has `beenfound in practice that this turning up of the stitch-receiving portionof the welt is objectionable in that the rounded shoulder produced bythe bending of the inner edge of the welt prevents a close fitting ofthe welt and bent edge of the upper within the angle formed by the lipand feather, and consequently the inseam will not be as tight asdesired. Furthermore, by turning up the inner edge of the welt andstitching through the same a comparatively rigid and stiff rib or iiangeis produced, which tends to greatly stiifen the shoe, thereby renderingit inflexible and unyielding. In the present invention the welt is soconstructed that it can be attached to the insole and upperwithoutbending its stitch-receivin g edge, and when the insole, upper,and welt are united the edge of the welt will cause the bent edge of theupper to substantially conform to the angle between the lip and feather,thus producing a tight inseam and a shoe of great flexibility.

The present invention therefore consists of the improved boot or shoeand a welt therefor, which will be hereinafter described and claimed.

The present invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawings, inwhich- Figure l shows a section of my improved shoe, illustrating themanner of securing the welt to the upper and insole. Fig. 2 is a sectionof my improved shoe before the outsole is attached, and Fig. 3 is aperspective view of my improved-welt.

Similar letters of reference refer to corresponding parts throughout thespecification and drawings.

In the drawings, A represents the welt, A the insole, and E the upper.

The insole A may be of the ordinary lipped construction, or, as shown inthe drawings, it may be provided with a lip 0,3, feather a4, and bechanneled at c', providing the channel-flap a5. The insole ispreparedfor receiving the stitches which unite the same and the upper andwelt byturning up the vlip a3 and the channel-Hap c5, as shown in Fig. l.

A represents :my improved welt, which is preferably made with its inneredge d6 substantially at a right angle with the upper and lower facesthereof, and along its under face near the edge c6 said welt is providedwith a channel a, forming a channel-flap 0.2 for the purpose ofreceiving the stitches which unite the welt, upper, and insole.

In securing the parts together the edge of the upper is laid in theangle between the lip as and the feather a4, and the welt A, withoutturning up itsinner edge c", is placed upon the upper with itsedge a6fitting squarely within the angle `formed by the bent edge of the upperE, thus forcing said upper into the angle of the lip and feather. Thechannelflap a2 is raised by a suitable welt-guide B, having a plow b, asthe shoe is fed along by the sewing-machine used in uniting the welt,upper, and insole, whereby the needle can en- IOO ter the base of thechannel d and pass through the lip asand emerge from the channel d ofthe insole A'.

By the present construction the stitches of the inseam pass through theunder face of the welt A and emerge from the edge d6 thereof insubstantially a horizontal plane and in a plane parallel with the upperand lower faces of the welt or upon a line corresponding to the medialtransverse line of the between substance of the Welt, whereby the weltwill lie iiat against the upper when secured in place and can be securedto the insole and upper without the necessity of turning up itsstitchreeeiving edge. y It is to be noted that the edge d6 of the weltfits squarely against that portion of the edge of the upper which iitsin the angle formed by the lip and feather, thus causing the upper tosquarely take into such angle, insuring a tight inseam, and that thereis no upturned edge of the welt tending to stiffen the shoe, as inwelted shoes of the prior art.

I do not herein claim the Welt-guide B, as

such welt-guide forms the subject-matter of an application filed by meof even date herewith, Serial No. 640,280.

Having fully described my invention, l claim as new and desire toprotect by- Letters Patent of the United Statesl. A welted boot or shoecomprising an upper, insole, and welt, the welt laid flat against theupper, with the stitch-receiving portion thereof in'substantially thesame plane as the body of the Welt, said welt having a channel upon itsunder side near its stitch-receiving edge, the whole secured together bya line of stitches passing through said channel, substantially asdescribed.

42. The improved welt for boots and shoes provided with a channel uponits under side near its inner edge, said channel being formed by a cutor slit extending toward the inner edge of the welt, substantially asdescribed.

WILFRED JOI-IN DREY.

Witnesses:

HERMAN MEYER, NATHAN STEELE.

